How I can take out leeboard from Iroquoise MKIIA

look in the hatch at the aft end of the foreward berth. on the outside of the hull you will see a square metal plate held in place with 4 nuts. remove the nuts and pull the plate inward off the studs. the pin that supports the board and it pivots on is part of the plate. if the plate is difficult to remove use a chisel to loosen it. use bedding compound when reattaching it.
p.s. do not remove unless the boat is on the hard.

I used a p.v.c. pipe fitting as a bearing for the board to rotate on. the fitting is about twice as thick as the pipe itself. I ground off the end of the fitting with a hack saw and finished it with a sanding disk. i epoxied it in place. I suspect that the bolt was used as a bearing. the p.v.c. works great and will not wear on the pin. my pins are original ,30 years old and still working well.

Resealing Windows



The product that they supplied to seal the completed windows into the boat is called Rallibondite 450, manufactured by Astor-Stag Ltd, Tavistock Road, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7RA. Tel 01895 445511. I do not know what type of sealant it is other than it is based on synthetic rubber. It does not harden completely, but remains slightly soft for ever. When freshly applied it can be cleaned up with paraffin or white spirit.

It is sold for use in building work, e.g. joints on doors and windows, but appears to work well in a marine environment.

It is also somewhat cheaper than Sikaflex!

After some 35 yrs of trying to stop leaks in boats the only thing I have found that really works and is easy to remove (VERY IMPORTANT TO ME) is a product called mastic available in rolls of different widths. (try 1" for the windows) this stuff has been around for ever and can be found holding plastic to car doors under the door panels still soft after 20 or 30 years. It is also used to hold plastic sheets together during vacume bagging. You can buy it from the West Epoxy people (very expensive) or from Merit Marine in Ft Lauderdale FL (very cheap) as well as many other sources. Do not confuse it with the mastic sold for moble home and RV repair. A simple test to be sure you have the right stuff is that when you pull it, it will not tear ragged but rather string out like taffy. It is the only thing I have been using for the last 7 yrs on screws, under fittings installed on deck, any where you need a sealer, it was the only thing that stoped the leaks around my chain plates. The only things that now leak aboard "Amaryllis" are those that have not been redone with mastic. Keep a small roll on board and you will never install a screw with out sealant again just because you don't want to waste a whole tube of 5200 or the like for one or two screws. Hope this helps.

the glass is bedded in "Ralli-Bondite Glazing Compound". The whole window in alliminium frame was then fitted to the GRP opening with "ribbon seal gun grade bedding compound" on the GRP, and "Inseal 900 strip bedding" on the aliminum frame. Why the necessity for two products to join the frames to the GRP I do not know, unless it is that the product that sticks to Grp does not stick to Aliminum, and the one that sticks to Alimimium does not stick to GRP but they both stick to each other, Hope this info is useful to some one.

I know this posting is old but I am redo-ing my windows and used 3M 4200 on the front ones. I wanted to try the mastic on the side windows and in reseating the winches. I think the mastic (or something close) was used on one of the winches because even though it was obviously installed a long time ago, the sealant was still soft, pliable and I could peel it off. It still had very good sealing properties and never leaked

I found the mastic on the West Epoxy web site as "vacuum bag sealant".

Do you have a specific manufacturer or brand name for the mastic? But they only had 1/2" width at about US$10 for a 25 foot roll.

Have you found any other sources for the mastic in different widths? You mentioned that it could be gotten other places. Any leads?

I finally got some of that "MASTIC" tape and have used it replacing the roof dome vents, repairing/reseating the winches and resealing the side windows. THAT STUFF IS LIKE MAGIC. Wow it good.... and CHEAP.

Got mine from an aircraft supply house under vacuum bagging supplies. Only US$4 per 1/2"x25' roll. MUCH cheaper, neater, cleaner and better than 3M 4200 or equivalent.

Davits (from Alan Holmes)

It's taken some time but I've finally got photos to illustrate the dinghy rack I got made for our 11 ft sailing rib. It's fitted to a MkIIa which gives ample space for the dinghy without overhanging the stern. The links below are to the pictures.
Port
Starboard


Hull Numbers

on our boat the number is on the back of the hatches in the staterooms that lead to the tunnel that makes up the back of the cockpit and on the front edge of the table in the cabin at the mast where the front removable section fits. Another common place for the number to be found (so I gather) is in the gas locker in the cockpit. However some boats don't seem to have any visible number

Difference between MKI, II

The major differences between a MkI and MkII are:

MkI Fractional rig - big main small genny
MkII Masthead rig - roughly equal sized sails - lower centre of effort.
Mk II Wider beam and more freeboard.
MkI Aluminium centre boards, MkII sheathed ply boards.
The MkI was considered more of a racing sailboat and was reportedly more prone to flying a hull or even capsize.
The MkII was redesigned to improve stability and interior volume. There are those that consider the MkI 'prettier' than the MkII but, as always, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
The price difference is probably mostly down to the relative ages of the 2 marks.